Slide over, scrapple and crabcakes. Barbecue is becoming a sweet, tangy staple in coastal Sussex County. There are three spots for smoky meats in Lewes alone, and the Southern staple’s popularity is only increasing. In 2022, for instance, the movers and shakers behind the 20-year-old Bethany Blues in Lewes and Bethany opened Downtown Blues in Rehoboth Beach.

In addition to brick-and-mortar restaurants, roadside barbecue stands are practicing a cooking style that originated in the West Indies. Barbacoa refers to slow-cooking meats over hot coals. Southerners embraced barbecue, and now the centuries-old cuisine has crept north.

However, there are differences, ranging from the smoker—wood-fired or propane-assisted—to the sauces. Taste the varied flavors for yourself at these eight spots. (Note that many stands close when they sell out—and they often do.)